Post by mainedawg on Aug 19, 2011 12:23:51 GMT -5
www.surplusrifleforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=137&t=51760
Nice BLO job here.
disasembly of the rifle is very easy.
first lock back the bolt, pull trigger and remove bolt. there are 2 screws on the main housing, one right under the back of the bolt on top and one infront of the magazine on the bottom. remove both. and then remove the magazine/trigger housing
on the front of the stock there are 2 steel rings wrapped around the top and bottom pieces of the rifle stock, there are basically push-springs holding them in place, simply push down on the spring and the rings slide off towards the end of the barrel away form the rear sight.
remove top piece of wood, then the whole barrel/reciever will come free from the stock.
there are actually only 8 moving parts in the mosin reciever assembly, the trigger, trigger push latch, and the magazine/bolt lifter magazine spring assembly and magazine bottom.
first undo the screw attatched to the left side of the trigger, the trigger, trigger tension lever and push latch will come out. then infront of that there is a smaller screw wich holds in the bolt lifter. remove that.
there usualy is no need to disasemble the magazine spring or bottom so we wont go into that *plus its very hard to re-assemble*
next is the bolt disasembly. When you remove the bolt it will be in "cocked" function, what you want to do is hold the bolt itself, and grab the round cocking wheel on the back of the bolt. pull backwards while holding the bolt itself and turn the wheel counter clockwise it will harshly pull forward and stop.
Once it has done this you can remove the front firing pin socket by turning it counter clockwise and pulling away from the bolt. second the firing pin guide rod will remove by just pulling away from the bolt.
next you must remove the firing pin, on the back of the cocking wheel there is a flathead screw, use a screwdriver and turn the screw counter clockwise untill the firing pin comes out, there is a very long spring that goes with it. clean all the mechanical parts with bore cleaner, oven cleaner, dawn dish soap and warm water or "LA's Totally awesome" dry and re assemble by reversing the steps above.
refinishing a mosin stock can actually be quite complicated, well not refinishing but getting the original finish color back is.
it all really depends on where it was made, what factory it was machined at ect.
soviet mosins were mostly machined at one of two places. the Izhevsk , and the tula plants. izhevsk mosins usually have an arrow in a triangle stamp or a soviet hammer with a wreath around it for a stamp on the reciever, where a tula has a hammer alone, hammer in a triangle or "T" stamped on the stock.
99% of soviet mosins had 2 piece laminate stocks, if you remove the buttplate you can tell if its hard wood or laminate, if its harwood its a re-service pre war from finland, if its laminate its a war time to post war time soviet stock.
soviet stocks had basically the finish of "gunstock" although the chemicals that were used for finishes then are no longer available the gunstock finish is easy to get and matches almost perfectly, after its finished use "KMR Oil" to bring out the grain look.
refinishing them is simple. the old finish scrapes right off so use a steel putty knife, pocket knife, butter knife , whatever you have and just scrape it off down to the wood, comes off pretty easy.
after that get some low number grade sand paper.......probably around 100 and sand along the grain of the wood, not against it because it will burr.......after you get the staining out, go up to around 250-300 number sand paper *very fine grain* and sand it to a smooth finish. use a wet rag or something to remove all of the shavings and dirt. the wetter the better, soaking the wood while doing this opens up the grain in the wood and it will take a better stain. get your "gunstock" or whatever stain you prefer but gunstock is most accurate to 1941-1946 era stains.
Apply a coat to the wood , careful not to overstain or drip. let dry for ehhh 35 min, sand lightly, re apply untill you have the desired consitancy. then wait 24 hours to cure. Next try to hang the stock with wire , that way its not resting on anything ,apply alot of the KMR oil and let that cure for about 3-4 hours. and your done. very easy to do.
now thats only with soviet rifles. finish, chinese , dutch all have a much lighter stock color , i would probably go with a rough to fine sanding, then just polyurithane it, bring out the natural color of the stock and you should be all set.
as to restoring the metal on the gun. bore blaster will take out the fouling, try to use a cleaner that is specifically for copper fouling i noticed this works better. when brushing the bore with a steel or copper brush make sure to check for counterboring. alot of mosins have what is called "counterboring" where the bore in the rifle went bad around 1942 and they respun the bore counter clockwise. on a barrel without conterboring you should brush from reciever to end, and with counter you should go from end to reciever.
SOAK the barrel, bolt, reciever, bayonet, sights, holding straps for the upper and lower stock, mag well any metal hardware in hopps no.9 gun oil for a long time, then use a rough kitchen sponge to scrub away the rust *yes it comes right off*.
If reblueing is needed dont use the wipe on junk, it will rust within 48 hours. use the paint on and "bake" stuff right at the end of the reciever there is a small screw that you loosen that will allow the barrel and reciever to come apart to make this easier.
alot of people will notice when they go to unscrew their cleaning rod it will not screw back in, thats because the bolt that it screws into has gotten clogged with dirt, best way to remove this is to take a drill bit not much smaller than the rod itself, tape it to the end of the rod and drill out the dirt / cosmoline that is obstructing it.
cleaning the bayonet on the m44 or 91/30 can be tricky. these bayonets are under alot of pressure from a locking spring loaded inside the bayonet push, so the best way to remove them is to keep the bayonet locked in place. and use a flathead screwdriver to remove the screw, make sure the weapon is UNLOADED, face it barrel towards the celing or barrel down and push the bayonet towards the rear of the rifle, it will come right out, and then the spring will follow.
clean this with bore blaster, LA's, hand soap whatever you got. the russian rule in ww2 was the bayonet was to be extended except when traveling in a vehicle and they were also sighted in with the bayonet extended so all that corrosive junk were all used to HAS caked that bayonet *if you have one *.
last but not least. DO NOT USE MINWAX OR ANY OTHER TYPE OF WOOD CLEANER ON YOUR MOSIN!. if you want it to be more shiney or glossy. dont use the oil after staining just use a glossy polyurithane. if that wears down..........recoat it . minwax and such products will dammage the stock. 99% of the woods out there nowadays are treated with chemicals. however 75 year old rifle stocks were not, it will damage it.
hope this helps. if you do it right you can 100% restore a mosin for under $29.00 and less than 2 days time with little effort.
Nice BLO job here.
disasembly of the rifle is very easy.
first lock back the bolt, pull trigger and remove bolt. there are 2 screws on the main housing, one right under the back of the bolt on top and one infront of the magazine on the bottom. remove both. and then remove the magazine/trigger housing
on the front of the stock there are 2 steel rings wrapped around the top and bottom pieces of the rifle stock, there are basically push-springs holding them in place, simply push down on the spring and the rings slide off towards the end of the barrel away form the rear sight.
remove top piece of wood, then the whole barrel/reciever will come free from the stock.
there are actually only 8 moving parts in the mosin reciever assembly, the trigger, trigger push latch, and the magazine/bolt lifter magazine spring assembly and magazine bottom.
first undo the screw attatched to the left side of the trigger, the trigger, trigger tension lever and push latch will come out. then infront of that there is a smaller screw wich holds in the bolt lifter. remove that.
there usualy is no need to disasemble the magazine spring or bottom so we wont go into that *plus its very hard to re-assemble*
next is the bolt disasembly. When you remove the bolt it will be in "cocked" function, what you want to do is hold the bolt itself, and grab the round cocking wheel on the back of the bolt. pull backwards while holding the bolt itself and turn the wheel counter clockwise it will harshly pull forward and stop.
Once it has done this you can remove the front firing pin socket by turning it counter clockwise and pulling away from the bolt. second the firing pin guide rod will remove by just pulling away from the bolt.
next you must remove the firing pin, on the back of the cocking wheel there is a flathead screw, use a screwdriver and turn the screw counter clockwise untill the firing pin comes out, there is a very long spring that goes with it. clean all the mechanical parts with bore cleaner, oven cleaner, dawn dish soap and warm water or "LA's Totally awesome" dry and re assemble by reversing the steps above.
refinishing a mosin stock can actually be quite complicated, well not refinishing but getting the original finish color back is.
it all really depends on where it was made, what factory it was machined at ect.
soviet mosins were mostly machined at one of two places. the Izhevsk , and the tula plants. izhevsk mosins usually have an arrow in a triangle stamp or a soviet hammer with a wreath around it for a stamp on the reciever, where a tula has a hammer alone, hammer in a triangle or "T" stamped on the stock.
99% of soviet mosins had 2 piece laminate stocks, if you remove the buttplate you can tell if its hard wood or laminate, if its harwood its a re-service pre war from finland, if its laminate its a war time to post war time soviet stock.
soviet stocks had basically the finish of "gunstock" although the chemicals that were used for finishes then are no longer available the gunstock finish is easy to get and matches almost perfectly, after its finished use "KMR Oil" to bring out the grain look.
refinishing them is simple. the old finish scrapes right off so use a steel putty knife, pocket knife, butter knife , whatever you have and just scrape it off down to the wood, comes off pretty easy.
after that get some low number grade sand paper.......probably around 100 and sand along the grain of the wood, not against it because it will burr.......after you get the staining out, go up to around 250-300 number sand paper *very fine grain* and sand it to a smooth finish. use a wet rag or something to remove all of the shavings and dirt. the wetter the better, soaking the wood while doing this opens up the grain in the wood and it will take a better stain. get your "gunstock" or whatever stain you prefer but gunstock is most accurate to 1941-1946 era stains.
Apply a coat to the wood , careful not to overstain or drip. let dry for ehhh 35 min, sand lightly, re apply untill you have the desired consitancy. then wait 24 hours to cure. Next try to hang the stock with wire , that way its not resting on anything ,apply alot of the KMR oil and let that cure for about 3-4 hours. and your done. very easy to do.
now thats only with soviet rifles. finish, chinese , dutch all have a much lighter stock color , i would probably go with a rough to fine sanding, then just polyurithane it, bring out the natural color of the stock and you should be all set.
as to restoring the metal on the gun. bore blaster will take out the fouling, try to use a cleaner that is specifically for copper fouling i noticed this works better. when brushing the bore with a steel or copper brush make sure to check for counterboring. alot of mosins have what is called "counterboring" where the bore in the rifle went bad around 1942 and they respun the bore counter clockwise. on a barrel without conterboring you should brush from reciever to end, and with counter you should go from end to reciever.
SOAK the barrel, bolt, reciever, bayonet, sights, holding straps for the upper and lower stock, mag well any metal hardware in hopps no.9 gun oil for a long time, then use a rough kitchen sponge to scrub away the rust *yes it comes right off*.
If reblueing is needed dont use the wipe on junk, it will rust within 48 hours. use the paint on and "bake" stuff right at the end of the reciever there is a small screw that you loosen that will allow the barrel and reciever to come apart to make this easier.
alot of people will notice when they go to unscrew their cleaning rod it will not screw back in, thats because the bolt that it screws into has gotten clogged with dirt, best way to remove this is to take a drill bit not much smaller than the rod itself, tape it to the end of the rod and drill out the dirt / cosmoline that is obstructing it.
cleaning the bayonet on the m44 or 91/30 can be tricky. these bayonets are under alot of pressure from a locking spring loaded inside the bayonet push, so the best way to remove them is to keep the bayonet locked in place. and use a flathead screwdriver to remove the screw, make sure the weapon is UNLOADED, face it barrel towards the celing or barrel down and push the bayonet towards the rear of the rifle, it will come right out, and then the spring will follow.
clean this with bore blaster, LA's, hand soap whatever you got. the russian rule in ww2 was the bayonet was to be extended except when traveling in a vehicle and they were also sighted in with the bayonet extended so all that corrosive junk were all used to HAS caked that bayonet *if you have one *.
last but not least. DO NOT USE MINWAX OR ANY OTHER TYPE OF WOOD CLEANER ON YOUR MOSIN!. if you want it to be more shiney or glossy. dont use the oil after staining just use a glossy polyurithane. if that wears down..........recoat it . minwax and such products will dammage the stock. 99% of the woods out there nowadays are treated with chemicals. however 75 year old rifle stocks were not, it will damage it.
hope this helps. if you do it right you can 100% restore a mosin for under $29.00 and less than 2 days time with little effort.